How to Dress Like a Tudor

What a splendid contribution to Tudor fashion history for re-enactors and enthusiasts! Let’s face it, historical costuming is an irresistible rabbit hole for ‘dedicated followers of fashion’ drawn to a particular period. Author Judith Arnopp is one of that happy league. Tudor is her catnip, and she shares her wealth of accumulated knowledge, as both an author and re-enactor, in How to Dress Like a Tudor.

This is a must-have book for anyone involved in re-enactment or Tudor costuming, or hoping to get with the program and not sure where to start. It’s also a helpful resource for historical fiction authors and readers who want to learn more about the elaborate symbolism and social significance of clothing during the 16^th Century.  Ms. Arnopp draws from the vast research that informs her historical novels to present a solid general overview of how fashion evolved during the period coupled with in-depth context around the role of clothing in shaping public perception of the Tudor monarchs.

Combining truly informative historical background with a how-to guide for people wanting to create costumes is not a recipe for a lightweight foray into the topic. Readers looking only for nothing more than some frothy re-enactment anecdotes and a couple of French hood patterns may find How to Dress Like a Tudor a heavy lift. Given the breadth of content, Ms. Arnopp settled on a sensible top-down structure, starting with a look at the power and psychology of the Tudor kings and Queens, especially the myth-building by Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. She explains the sumptuary laws that imposed restrictions on dress according to social status: only the royal family could wear purple, for example. During Elizabeth’s reign, the rules were expanded to include “ruffs, hose and the length of one’s sword.”

Clothing was fiercely expensive, and the types of fabrics available were limited. I was intrigued to learn more about the Field of the Cloth of Gold, that “pinnacle of Tudor extravagance.” Rich details like this set Ms. Arnopp’s book apart from those that focus more narrowly on costume alone.

The author goes on to discuss the individual clothing items worn by women, starting with the historical backdrop and then focusing on kirtles, gowns and accessories before continuing to shirts, men’s attire, and clothing for children. The final third of the book is the sewing guide component. A founder of the Fyne Companye of Cambria re-enactment group, she offers tips and hacks drawn from the trial and error of sewing her own costumes, and provides abundant black and white illustrations, portraiture images, and photographs of herself in various styles. Covering everything from codpieces to court dress to commoner, clerical, and battle attire, she explains how to choose and craft a costume achievable for various levels of sewing know-how, from novice to expert.

Sometimes the book feels rather dry and dull, and there will be readers who choose to skip over the deep-dive content in favor of the costuming nuts and bolts. But the point is: the meaty material is there in the first place. I have not seen a more thorough, well-grounded practical guide to Tudor costuming for people who do not work in museums or academia. The Regency Chronicle team highly recommends this well-targeted, well-written book. 5 stars, all round.

Thanks to the author, Pen and Sword Books, and NetGalley for providing an advance review copy. Cover image courtesy of Pen and Sword © 2023.  Review by Lily LeGrande © 2023 The Regency Chronicle.